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Page last updated 2010-02-08. My camera lenses On this page: © Heikki Siltala - Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported License This page describes the camera lenses I've used. There is a separate page to describe camera bodies. Some deprecated cameras can be found on Nytech ND-4020 and Kodak F300 pages. Camera lenses summary: It has been said that to improve the quality of photos the first thing to do is to learn how to photograph. The second thing to do is to buy better lenses. All the rest like buying the latest camera body is said to be insignificant. I personally found the lenses to be more interesting to discuss about than the bodies. Actually it is more interesting to use them than to discuss thme! People often ask me what camera body I use. I feel that question should be what lenses do I use. The equipment you need depends on what you're about to do with them. There is no single lens that is perfect for all uses. My lens setup is strongly weighted by the fact that they must work well on cat show photography and they must match my shooting style. A guy that walks the sunny beaches or a bird watcher might choose a whole different lens setup. I encourage you to contact the large consulting company called the internet before considering any lens purchase. A couple of minutes with Google can save you a lot of money. What you should remember is that you are buying the lens to yourself. Always keep in mind what are your needs and your expectations. There are no two photographers that have identical needs. I made a public promise to myself that I won't be buying new photography equipment in year 2010. To make this promise to come true I did some preparations for this year. I have an interesting modern autofocus telephoto prime ready to get revealed at some point of year 2010. So be prepared :-D Current lensesI' m now officially a prime guy. Due the fact that I have found primes (aka fixed focal length lenses) to offer a better image quality and generally a larger maximum aperture than the zooms I prefer primes over zooms. Feel free to feel vice versa. Currently I own no zoom lenses but just primes. Canon EF 135mm f/2.0 L USM (ERP 1100 euros)
The image quality of Canon EF 135mm f/2.0 L USM is so high that I could write a whole page about it. If you are looking for the best IQ available this lens won't let you down. What I like in addition to the IQ is that it's almost as handable as my other smaller and wider primes. I can easily handle the camera, carry it around for numerous hours, lift the system up and down and change between landscape and portrait without feeling the system weight slowing me down. The price of this lens is high but I have found it to be well worth the investment. But if you like to save some money and have no urge for f/2.0 you might consider getting Canon EF 200mm f/2.8 L II USM as an alternative, at least if you have a full frame body. It is cheaper and still it is claimed to be the best Canon lens ever made image quality wise. Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM (ERP 430 euros)
Sigma 50mm f/1.4 EX DG HSM (ERP 470 euros)
Sigma 50mm f/1.4 EX DG HSM is a very well-built and a heavy lens. It much larger and heavier than the classic Canon equivalent. The image quality is generally excellent. The photos are sharp and there are no clear color shifts on out of focus ares that are an issue with the Canon. Also the background blur beats all others 50 mm lenses I've seen and even a pile of those of longer focal length. I would highly recommend this lens to all users but there is a sad issue of front focus. The lens shows rather constant front focus when shooting objects at close distances. It appears to be in the characteristics of the lens design since it the same with all the bodies I've tested it with. My copy of the lens was tested by the Finnish importer Foka and appeared to be in perfect condition. If you plan to buy this lens you should be ready to learn how to handle the front focus issue. You might compensate it by you camera body's autofocus microadjustment feature or you might just focus slightly off the subject. If you learn to live with that you can expect great results. 50 mm focal length was very useful for me with 1.6x crop body but gets much less use with 1.3x crop body. Sigma 28mm f/1.8 EX DG (ERP 470 euros)
Tokina 17mm f/3.5 AT-X Pro (ERP 270 euros)
Tokina 17mm f/3.5 AT-X was my first lens that was built like a real pro lens but still was far from the pro price. It is really a bargain to sell a lens of this quality with that price! Sharpness and colors are very good. You can really get satisfying results with this lens. What bothered me first is a significant tendency to show chromatic aberration of various colors. Then I learned that this is very typical with all wide angle lenses. The CA is less prominant at smaller apertures. Lensbaby Composer (ERP 190 euros for framework and double class optic)
I currently have three swappable optics for my Lensbaby Composer: double class optic, single class optic and soft focus optic. I also have the creative aperture kit. Double class optic has the widest range of different uses. Single class optic is very soft and gives you all the distortions you want. Perhaps you don't need to go any softer than this so you won't be needing the plastic optic. Soft focus optic is different from the others. The focus doesn't have a sweet spot so you don't tilt and shift it. You just use it like any other manual focus lens and get soft results. Previously owned lensesCanon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM (ERP 2000 euros)
Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM is a good mixture of a medium telephoto zoom lens and a low light performer. Due to the image stabilization I was able use it indoors at dim lit cat show halls. Of course the low light peformance has its limits due to f/2.8 maximum aperture and the fact that you arms tend to shake a lot when holding all the weight of the lens. I took this lens with me when I was sure that there is at least a decent lighting at the show hall. In the darkest show halls I prefered to leave this home. In those halls f/1.4 and f/1.8 primes were the ones I needed. The best use for this lens at cat shows was to take paparazzi type of shots. With 50mm and 85mm primes on 1.6x crop body I had to be rather close to the subject and paparazzi type shots weren't possible. The overall image quality of this lens good. It might be as good as it will ever gets with zooms. At f/2.8 Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM is still significantly sharper. The image quality of the zoom gets even better when stopped down and is stunning starting from f/4. I can easy compare its image quality at f/5.6 to the primes that I have. Only Canon EF 135mm f/2.0 L USM is still visibly shaper. The mechanical construction of this lens is both excellent and terrible: this is a professionally built lens for pros so the weight and size have become the limiting factors. With Canon EOS 40D it was a must to have the battery grip. I decided to sell this lens due the fact that my shooting style and the weight of this lens don't mix. I like to move fast, lift the camera quickly up an and hold it up for extended periods of time. For that kind of use the weight of the lens was simply too much. Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM (ERP 400 euros)
If you don't like third party lenses it is now your final opportunity to reconsider! This lens rises the bar of what can be done without a tripod or a monopod. Setting the body to ISO 3200, shutter speed to 1/60 s and aperture to f/1.4 you can go hand held where no-one can expect it. Actually I was considering to purchase Canon EF 28mm f/1.8 USM but decided to go with the Sigma due to larger maximum aperture, better sharpness at large apertures and due to a smaller price. That seems to have been the right choice. Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM (ERP 390 euros)
The lens has a plastic body which might feel a little bit cheap but also keeps the weight down. The lens lasted for tens of thousands of shots but eventually started to have an issue on iris control. Occassionally the blades wouldn't return to fully open state and that resulted "Err 01" on the body. Due to this issue I decided to replace it with Sigma 50mm f/1.4 EX DG HSM. Tamron SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical Macro (ERP 415 euros)
The Tamron zoom is made of all plastic (excluding the metallic EF mount) but the build quality seemed to be OK compared to its price. The zoom handled nicely and looked cool. But it wasn't really the lens for me. Like most zooms it wasn't very sharp at wide open. It started to be sharp around f/5.6 and since I shoot indoors without a flash I couldn't cope with that. In some other uses it might be more usable. Also the speed of autofocus was sometimes an issue at cat shows. Canon EF 28mm f/2.8 (ERP 240 euros)
Sigma 10mm f/2.8 EX DC HSM diagonal fisheye (ERP 600 euros)
Peleng 8mm f/3.5 fisheye (ERP 380 USD)
The lens peforms tolerably. Don't expect the image quality to be superb. Just have fun with it or switch to Sigma 10mm f/2.8 EX DC HSM for image quality. CA is often present. At wide open the images are soft but at f/8 the things start to get better. The depth of field with a 8 mm lens is so enormous that with good light using and using f/11 or f/16 you'll end up focusing with the focusing scale, not with the viewfinder. This is where the lens works best: lot of light, set to f/16 and focus using the focusing scale. The lens is made in Belarus and has in a positive sense a full metal soviet-like construction. It is a manual-focus manual-aperture manual-everything M42 screw mount lens and can be attached to EOS body with an adapter. The adapter is a simple metal ring with no optics involved so the image quality doesn't suffer. The lens cap is made of metal and can easily come off and scratch the front element. I used to put a microfiber lens cleaning cloth between the lens and the lens cap and it tightened the cap up and protected the front element. Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II (ERP 105 euros)
The image quality of Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II can be considered good - far better than with the kit lens - and it is a lens that is a delight to be carried around. There is contrast and color. The cons are the cheap plastic design and a somewheat harsh background blur. This lens is designed for autofocus only. It has a very short focusing ring movement and no focusing scale. Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II got eventually replaced by Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM. Sigma 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 APO Macro Super II (ERP 250 euros)
My story with Sigma 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 APO Macro Super II ended because my requirements on image quality got higher and the AF motor or mechanism of the lens became very noisy. I sold the lens for a some tens of euros. Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 (aka the kit lens)
Rubinar 500mm f/8
MC Jupiter-9 85mm f/2
I purchased this lens mainly out of curiosity and partially because I was looking for a fast lens (f/2.0 or faster) with longer focal length than the classic 50 mm. At that time I didn't have the Canon's 85 mm. The build quality of the lens is fine: it is all metal and glass and it weights about a ton. The lens has a M42 screw mount and fits to EOS mount using an adapter. The simplest adapter is a metal ring having M42 screw in the inner surface and EOS mount on outer surface. I used a special EOS mount adapter that lit the focus confirmation light when a proper focus was achieved. I also managed to attach a non-brand lens hood to the lens using the filter thread. My findings indicate that it is true what has been written about this lens. At wide open (f/2) it is a soft lens and should suit perfectly to portrait work if you like the special softness. The background blur is very pleasant and the whole photo has a dreamy feeling. Somewhere around f/4 and f/5.6 it turns to sharp and at f/8 it is sharp as a razor. The out-of-focus experience is very pleasing. Objects a little bit out of focus have a mist or soft cast around them like it was a painting. Objects more out of the focus range become nicely blurred. This is probably due to the optical formula and due the fact that the lens has an iris of 15 blades. So much iris blades is totally unheard of at these days of mass production and cost-effectiviness. Jupiter-37AM 135mm f/3.5 The lens was made obsolete by Canon EF 135mm f/2.0 L USM and got sold. Tamron 2X MC7 C-AF1 BBAR teleconverter (ERP 200 euros) was my secret weapon when shooting the moon. The results can been seen on the front page even today. I loved to shoot the moon and to get even closer with Sigma 70-300 mm I decided to purchase this 2x teleconverter that converted my Sigma to slow 140-600 mm lens. A cheap telezoom and 2x teleconverter is often considered a bad combination and yes, it is true. The contrast becomes rather weak and the sharpness is gone. But it suited rather well on shooting the moon because the moon is so bright. I tested the Tamron teleconverter with some other lenses too but never fell in love with the results due to visible decrease in saturation, contrast and sharpness. Notice that Tamron 2X MC7 C-AF1 BBAR is a 7-element teleconverter and should give far better results than some cheap 4-element 2x teleconverters. The Tamron also has a nice feature: it doesn't stop the body from autofocusing. Typically attaching 2x teleconverter informs the body that the autofocus should be disabled due to insufficient light. This Tamron one doesn't do that and the camera keeps the autofocus going. On bright light situations the autofocus hunts a little but eventually gets the focus. In low light situations it is sensible to switch the lens to MF for good. Page changes: © Heikki Siltala - Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported License You can contact the author of this page at webmaster [at] heikkisiltala [dot] com. |
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